THE VILLAGE VRMDŽA – PARADISE LOVED BY ITALIAN AND AMERICAN TOURISTS
At the foot of Rtnja is the village of Vrmdža, recognizable by the Vrmdžan lake, 40 water sources, the mythical Rtnja and untouched nature. On an asphalt road, half an hour’s drive from Sokobanja, you will reach the signpost “Vrmdža” and the first scattered houses among the orchards and in the clearings. The village got this somewhat rude name from the word “vrm” which means water, and the water here flows from a large number of springs, streams and rivers. At the very entrance to the village there is one of the many fountains, some of which even date back to the time of the Turks. The village is located at 500 meters above sea level, it is divided into hamlets or, as they say here, “small”, and has about 200 households with about 800 inhabitants. It is interesting that a lot of highly educated population has moved here in the last ten years. According to the locals, they are mostly programmers who work remotely, but there are also economists, former diplomats, and there are also one American, one Italian, one Swiss woman, and a large number of people from Belgrade, Niš, Novi Sad, and Subotica. When you hear what Vrmdža is like, you won’t be surprised why they moved here.
The village does not have a classic center, in fact the center consists of a store at the crossroads, but it has something that few villages have – a summer stage. The environmental documentary film festival – Vrmdža Fest is held there. The films compete in three categories: ecology, tourism and ethno-culture and rural life. If you continue further towards the “center”, it is hard not to notice the rock that rises on the hill. It is the Latin city, i.e. the walls of the ancient city of Vrmdžana from the Roman era, which was built in the period up to the 6th century during the reign of Emperor Justinian. It was built for the defense of this part of the Byzantine territory against the penetration of the Avars and Slovenia. There are numerous stories, legends and myths about lost treasure, and the town of Vrmdžan is still the target and destination of treasure hunters. From this vantage point, Rtanj can be seen best, but also the whole village – the four-year school and the houses of the villagers, orchards, gardens, barns.
Descending a little lower, in the shade of trees and the smell of pines, there is the Church of the Holy Trinity built in 1819 on the foundations of the one from the 13th century. The church is located on a hill from where you can also see the beautiful landscapes of the village to the south, east and west, and in the courtyard of the shrine there is also a village museum which for several years has a permanent exhibition that shows the Serbian village throughout history. Near the church is the oldest village school in Southeast Serbia, which was built in 1834 and only started working in 1851.
When you head towards Lake Vrmdžana, you will surely notice the water mill on the way, which has been converted into an ethno restaurant “Kod deda Mije”. This mill does not run on electricity but on water power and is over 100 years old. The friendly hosts, grandfather Mija and his wife, will be happy to explain how the mechanisms work, and offer you flour to buy. During the season, at Grandfather Mia’s, you can try Rtanj cheese, honey and forest fruit jam, homemade pies made from twisted crusts and buns with cream. Authentic food and beautiful scenery will make you fully experience this village.
The macadam road continues to the most beautiful part of this excursion – Lake Vrmdžana. Surrounded by green fields, orange-brown canopies and benches, the autumn days made the oval lake seem unreal. The blue sky and the sun right above it make a magical glow. A paradise for all the senses. By the way, Lake Vrmdžana is of karst origin and was created after a terrible cloudburst. History says that in 1892, the sinkhole filled with water, after a heavy rain and the melting of the Rtanja glaciers, so the torrent of water rushed down a pile of rocks and plugged a deep hole in the ground. Now the water in the lake is renewed from a small non-drying spring nearby and from rain and snow. The lake is surrounded by untouched nature and is rich in fish which, due to the cold water, do not manage to reach their full growth. Wooden benches, a soothing view of water and greenery make this lake ideal for picnics, vacations, but also a perfect space for the work of newly settled neighbors.
Vrmdža is best visited between April and September. Then you can experience the full potential of this place. Nice weather and a long day will give you quality time for climbing the nearby Rtanj, picking the famous Rtanj tea or watching a movie in nature. Also, if you decide to stay in Vrmdža, you will have 7 households that have converted their houses into bungalows, and the hosts will make sure that you feel at home. As souvenirs, you can take home Rta cheese as well as various medicinal teas. The village of Vrmdža is a paradise for nature lovers, mountaineers, fishermen and adventurers. If you find yourself in these descriptions or simply just want to rest, you will definitely be able to “charge your batteries” here.